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Leopard Gecko – Information and Caresheet Natural Habitat The leopard gecko is native to dry, rocky habitat in Pakistan, northern India and Afghanistan. They are nocturnal sleeping during the day in humid burrows, coming out to hunt at night. Longevity and Size Leopard geckos can live for up to 20 years. Adults can reach up to 12 inches in size, however a more average size would be approximately 8 inches. Adults can weigh anything from 50-100g. Generally, females are smaller. Adult size (lengthwise) should be reached at around 1 year. Suitability as pets Leopard geckos are one of the easiest reptiles to care for and keeping them can be a very rewarding experience. Youngsters can be quite skittish but calm as they grow and get used to being handled. They are generally calm, fairly inactive, unable to climb walls, tolerant of handling and clean. Being nocturnal, they are most active in the evening (spending most of the day sleeping). Selection Leopard Geckos should be healthy and responsive. When buying your Gecko take care to look for signs of poor husbandry. A healthy Gecko should have dry mouth and nostrils and have no residual dry skin from shedding – pay particular attention to the toes. If buying from a shop check the conditions they have been kept in are clean and that they have been provided with clean water, access to calcium based powder and the correct climate. Avoid any animals that have signs of metabolic bone disorder or have particularly thin tails (this is where they store their fat reserves) or have mucus/discharge around the mouth or nostrils. Housing Requirements You should ensure you have the correct housing set up and that it is running at the correct temperature before considering acquiring your Leopard Gecko. If you intend to keep Leopard Gecko’s together please be mindful of the following:
Enclosure Up to 3 leopard geckos can be properly housed in a 2 foot viv. You must take into consideration that they will require a temperature gradient within the viv in order to thermo regulate. Adequate ventilation must also be provided. Substrate There are many substrates on the market that are used by hobbyists successfully. However we only recommend using kitchen roll or newspaper as Geckos (especially young ones under 6”) can eat the substrate which can cause compaction and can lead to death of the animal. Temperature A temperature gradient is essential because geckos, like other reptiles, are unable to regulate their body temperature. Instead they will find a position in the tank that is at the temperature they require. Proper temperature is essential for digestion. A temperature gradient can be achieved by placing an undertank heatmat, basking spotlight or ceramic spot heater at one end of the tank to create the hot spot. The ground temperature at the warm end of the tank should be approximately 90F. The cooler end can be as low as 70-75F. Hot rocks are not recommended as they can over heat and cause burns. All heat sources should be regulated by a thermostat. Light UV lighting is not necessary for leopard geckos since they are nocturnal. We do not recommend using normal bulbs for heating unless it is red since most reptiles do not register light at infra red levels. Furniture: Hide boxes are where your gecko will most likely spend most of its time! Hides can be bought from pet shops or made from over-turned plant pots or plastic tubs. Hides should be available at both ends of the tank. A moist hide should also be provided to aid in skin shedding. Secured rocks, cork bark and fake plants look nice and give your gecko something to climb on. Water Tap water can be provided in a shallow water dish. The dish should be cleaned and water changed every other day. Calcium dish Access to a dish containing a small amount of calcium powder may be beneficial - allowing the gecko to regulate its own intake of calcium. This can be left in with your gecko at all times. Feeding Food type We provide our Leopard Gecko with a constant source of mealworms. Crickets or Locusts of an appropriate size (food items should be no longer than the width of the gecko's head) are also be given every other day. Livefood should be dusted with calcium and nutrobal. For variety or as a treat, silkworms and waxworms can be offered occassionally as these are high in fat. Supplements Remember that what your livefood eats, so does your Gecko!! Feeding your livefood a good diet is therefore essential for the well being of your Gecko and is referred to as ‘gutloading’. We feed our livefood on tortoise pellets, weetabix, fruit and vegetables. Amount We leave a bowl of mealworms in our vivs permanently replenishing it every two days. This allows your Gecko to eat as it requires. Crickets and Locusts are given every other day - usually 8 to 10 per gecko is enough. Shedding Leopard geckos shed their skin every three to four weeks. Before shedding the skin will look dull (it is important to check that the moist hide is moist during this time). The gecko will peel and eat the skin from its body (this should take no more than a few hours). Unshed skin (e.g. around the toes) can be removed by letting the gecko soak in a tub of shallow warm water, then using a damp cotton bud to rub the skin off if necessary. Summary A good husbandry regime will ensure the health and vitality of your Leopard Gecko and be very satisfying to the keeper. Keep your hides moist, remove faeces daily, ensure water is clean and check the temperature is correct - follow these guidelines and you will have happy Gecko’s!! |
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